Talsi - the town of nine hills
Who has said that Talsi is living on nine hills?
Who has counted and named the hills?
Was it whispered by some dwarf or a romp, or was it decided by pundits? Who can recall that? Maybe it's the proud soul of the inhabitants of Kurzeme - to be wealthy and great by creating stories and legends about their town.
Therefore it is better to see it walking on foot.
So let's roll quickly along the cobbled streets and steps of the city, slowly uphill and the again downhill from the top.
Let's roll from hill to hill, along both lakes until all the stories of nine hills are clewed and nine round things have been seen. - "Talsu saulīte" /Talsi' sun ornament/ in the national costume and in a carpet of flowers,
- Rings and bronze neck rings of ancient inhabitants of Kurzeme,
- Potter's wheel and quern-stone,
- An orb in a church tower,
- A wreath in town's blazon,
- Talsi round cheese and "sklandrauši",
- Painters' palette,
- Brass band clarion
- And an oak ring on the highest point of Talsi - in Tiguļkalns (Tiguļi hill).
Hill PILSKALNS
Talsi
Pilskalns (Hill fort) is the beginning of everything and the soul of the town. It rises 32 meters above the level of Talsi lake. A legend tells that a father had three sons - Talsis, Telsis and Tāsis. All three went to seek their fortune. Talsis found his here, built a castle, cultivated fields and fell in love with a woman.
In written chronicles Talsi (
Talseen) as a place name was first mentioned in 1231 when the Pope Balduin of Alna made a treaty with the elders of the Couronian tribes. 1936 - 1938 archeological research under the guidance of A. Karnups revealed that the Livonians, a Fenno-Ugrian tribe lived here until the 10
th century. They named this place "
Talusse" that means "a secluded place". From the 10
th - 14
th century one of the biggest Couronian castles stood here and it had a castle-front and 4 hectares large ancient town. The 50 building remains and around 4000 artifacts that were found indicate that highly skilled craftsmen lived in the castle.
Song festivals, ethnographic dancing and singing events, brass band performances, St John's Day bonfires and fireworks have taken and still take place in Pilskalns. During the town festival fabulous candle flowers blossom at the foot of the hill and in the Talsi lake (historically also called Martinelli and Ronne lake).
Hill BAZNĪCKALNS
Baznīckalns (Church hill) has been mentioned in writings long time ago as a cult place to our ancestors. The dome and white Talsi Evangelical Lutheran church on top of the hill can be seen from far away. The orb on top of the tower reminds of spreading of Christianity all over the world, while the rooster appeals to maintain vigilance and clear conscience.
The building is built in 1567 and it is the oldest stone building in town. Until the 18
th century a churchyard was located around the church and on the square - a pillory and a place of execution. Until 1930 a Friday fish market was held by the church. In the beginning of 20
th century a wooden stairway connected the steep
Baznīckalns (Church hill) and Lielā street. Some say that there were tunnels from church basement to
Pilskalns (Castle hill) and
Dzirnavkalns (Mill hill).
From 1802 to 1836 Carl Ferdinand Amenda (1771-1836), a friend of composer Ludwig van Beethoven was a pastor in this church. On Dzirnavu street a former Jewish synagogue built in mid-nineteenth century attracts attention. On Kalna Street 10 for eighty years already stock company "Talsu Piensaimnieks" has been turning milk into cheese and other delicacies. The cheese "Talsu ritulis" is a visiting-card of Latvia!
Hill DZIRNAVKALNS
Dzirnavkalns (Mill hill) in the past also called
Sudmalkalns is located at the southern end of Vilkmuiža lake. It is believed to be a cult place for ancient Couronians where the Livonian Order built a stone castle in the beginning of 15
th century. Last time it was mentioned in chronicles was 1636. In mid-nineteenth century baron Heiking built a residence where the castle once stood and created a park with footpaths and trees. By 1857 a wealthy Jewish merchant built Dutch type windmill that was called by local people Vilkmuiža or Devil's windmill. The windmill was still running during 1
st World war and was burned down around 1922.
From Dzirnavkalns one can see Vilkmuiža lake, market square, a district of private houses built around the 1950ies-1960ies and Talsi ice-hockey hall. Walking down the old cobbled Kalnu street one can get to Ezera square where the well-known Dižmāra fair is held. A memorial site "A ring of life, a shadow of death" (by sculptor Ojārs Arvīds Feldbergs) is made there to commemorate the victims of 28th June 1997 tragedy in Talsi. Youth and those who like active recreation are welcomed to test their skill and courage in the skate park "9 hills".
Hill VILKMUIŽAS KALNS
Vilkmuiža (Wolf manor) hill and Vilkmuiža Lake. Who knows whether the lake is called after the hill or vice versa. The only thing that is certain is that until the mid-nineteenth century there was a manor called Vilkmuiža owned by baron Firkss family on the eastern side of the lake.
A real keeper of secrets is the Vilkmuiža lake - from 11
th - 14
th century it was a burial place for ancient Couronians. There was a cult place for cremation on the eastern side of the lake. The dead were cremated together with their weapons, tools and jewelry and the remains were sunk in the lake.
From 1934 - 1936 archeological excavations were made under the guidance of Pauls Karnups and around 4000 artifacts were found. The artifacts can be seen in Talsi regional museum and History museum of Latvia.
Hill KRIEVRAGKALNS
Krievragkalns (Russian horn hill) is located in Jauntalsi (New Talsi). It carries its name thanks to the fact that in the end-nineteenth century an Orthodox church and school was built on the land owned by Talsi Crown. The newly acquired land was divided and rented to own people by church. People that belonged to church and built up the territory were Latvians that joined Orthodoxy.
The Orthodox church no longer exists, it was blown-up in autumn 1972. The school building has been rebuilt and now Talsi Christian school is located there. Among small wooden and red brick houses modern buildings rise - administrative centre where Talsi town council and Talsi district council resides, hotel "Talsi" and Talsi Sports center. On the foot of the hill a playground named "A train comes to Talsi" awaits children.
Not far away, on 34 Kr. Valdemāra street majestically rises Talsi Baptist church which is one of very few in Latvia with such a high tower. Since 1960 on the opposite side of the street the cinema "
Auseklis" awaits movie-goers. Talsi bus station still holds memories about the first half of the 20
th century when it was a narrow-gauge railway station and a train from Mazirbe to Stende was passing it by. The last Stende district locomotive can be seen at the Agriculture museum of Latvia on 11 Celtnieku street.
Zvaigžņu Street takes to the nowadays popular pear-tree "
Talsu skaistule" which is the pride of former Vilhelms Rode Gardening. On Zvaigžņu Street an architectural monument - Heinz-Kupfer family cemetery and chapel is located. It was built from 1801 - 1806 in Neoclassicism style. The building has a shape of an equilateral triangle and columns in corners.
Hill LEČU KALNS
Leču kalns (Leču hill) is located near the Talsi gymnasium. The land that was once owned by baron of Pastende was skillfully managed in the beginning of 20
th century by owner of "Leči" house. The fields always gave good harvest despite the waywardness of weather.
The hill witnessed tears and blood on November 1906. Down by the pond is the place where 6 revolutionists were shot. In autumn 1980 a monument by sculptor Olita Nigule was unveiled on the Leču hill in remembrance of 1905 - 1907 revolution. The monument has an inscription from a poem
"Talsu tiesa" /Talsi' judgment/ written by Rainis.
In mid-1930ies the inhabitants of Talsi decided to make this place a memorial site for freedom fighters of Latvia by unveiling the monument "Koklētājs" by Kārlis Zemdega. However the 2
nd World War intruded this intention. Where Brīvības, Saules, Stendes and Blumbaha streets meet there is a part of
"Soda priede" /Punishment pine/ trunk that witnessed the bloody events of January 1906 when 5 participators of Talsi armed upstanding were shot.
Opposite to
"Soda priede" the Talsi town coat of arms can be seen - a symbol of nine hills, hospitality and friendship. On Egļu street where "Kurzemes sēklas" Ltd is located one can regale his eyes with the gorgeous collection of plants.
Hill ĶĒNIŅKALNS
A legend says a Couronian king is buried here and people out of great respect for him have brought soil with their hats and aprons to form a hill above the place where king was buried. With support from Association of Latvians a town park with trees and decorative shrub and a romantic wooden stairway with 122 steps was built on
Ķēniņkalns (King's hill) in the end of 19
th century.
"Ķeizardārzs" or
"Pilsētas dārzs" as it was called by citizens quickly became a favorite place for walks and recreation. In 1958 the Festivāla square was built.
Since November 16., 1996 there is a monument in Ķēniņkalns called "Koklētājs". The monument that is dedicated to fallen freedom fighters of Latvia was initially designed by Kārlis Zemdega though finished by sculptor Vilnis Titāns. Some things still remind of the past - the old and the new Fabrika street, former wool factory and the war prison from the 2
nd World war
"Moku kambari" (1944 - 1945).
By the foot of the Ķēniņkalns almost 100 years old building lies -
"Talsu tautas nams" (People house of Talsi) that was built from funds raised by citizens of Talsi as a Commonwealth house. Tourism information center of Talsi district is located in this building. The town square that attracts Rally of Talsi fans in the spring, town festival guests in July and Dižmāra fair merchants in August was built in the beginning of the 1960ies. Since 1996 the front of the house on 25 Lielā Street is decorated by a stylized ethnographic ornament "
Talsu saulīte".
Hill TIGUĻU KALNS
Tiguļu kalns (Tiguļu hill) is the highest and observes the pace of the town from a distance. Tiguļu - Upleju house used to stand here once. It is a beautiful place that was desired and built up by the baron of Okte Georg fon Firkss. In 1883 - 1885 he built there his manor house "
Villa Hochheim". Talsi State Secondary school and Talsi 2
nd Secondary school used the manor house for the longest period of time (1923-1975).
From December 1996 Talsi regional museum is located in this building. The 17
th century cannons placed on both sides of the front entrance give the building a majestic look, while Talsi dendrology park creates cosiness and naturalism. The landscape park was made together with the manor house using the hilly relief, pond and the scenic view to the town.
More than 270 tree species a 5.8 hectares area now have been supplemented with shrub and flower composition, known as "
Talsu saulīte", while on the top of the hill a double circle made of oaks can be seen. Not far from the park one sees Saules street that was covered with buildings before the 1st Word war and Talsi Latin church. The little red brick house was dedicated to the Church in 1899 by Talsi noblewoman A. Dzedule.
After the reconstruction in 1999 (by architect V. Liepa) the church got a modern appearance. Confession and Virgin Mary chapels as well as a bell-tower (2004) have been added to the church. The bell-tower has 3 bells that bespeak us every day "...Faith, Hope, and Love; and the greatest of these is Love."
(Paul's 1st Letter to the Corinthians 13:13).
Hill SAULESKALNS
Sauleskalns (Sun hill) is a place where sunshine, sounds of a music and dance rhythms are revealed. The hymn-like "Talsu mijkrēslis" by Miervaldis Celmiņš resounds here. Here you can hear Talsi brass band playing, here Talsi musicians like Linda Leen, Raimonds Tigulis, Jānis Stībelis, Intars Busulis and Rihards Zaļupe are with us in their minds.
The building of open-air stage started in 1960 (architect H.Pļavinskis) with a great support and co-operation from local people. The small, overgrown pond was filled up. Instead of the pond a stage and a decorative limestone wall was built forming an amphitheater.
In the 1980ies the stage was reconstructed and landscaped. In summer it is a favorite place (with 5000 seats) of cultural and recreational events for Talsi town and Talsi district inhabitants and guests. Also the annual Rally of Talsi in spring passes here by.
Text from the brochure "Talsu pilsēta - Pa deviņ'".
Publisher: Talsi District Tourist Information Centre, 2008.
Text: Inese Vempere and Gita Japiņa.
Translator: Uldis Priekulis.